REMEMBERING GREATNESS

  




                     


                                                Gemma Ward
                                           
                                                            



                                              
   by Nick Knight 



 

for W Magazine 

              



wearing Balenciaga by  Nicolas Ghesquière 




                                                              S/S 2006

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BYE, BYE PARIS

Miu❤Miu

Well, that was boring. Maybe I just can't get excited about anything fashion related. Maybe it's me who's wrong. But I don't think so. This season the collections bored me to death. With a few exceptions, of course.
I always say I won't post anything about fashion week but I just can't be quiet. I have to say something, all the time. It's a blessing and a course.
❤details at Miu Miu❤

For me, the peak of amazingness at Paris was Rick Owens. I'm mean, what's not to like? I already did a post about him, sooner than all the other posts about fashion week. I just couldn't wait. I had to share my love for those jackets. Those details! YUM!
Closing that I have to say that I loved Miu Miu and where Miuccia Prada is taking the brand. It's so much more mature but with that quirky touch that is so Miu Miu. I also hate when designers who have more than one brand to design tend to mix it all up and it all looks one big collection. This time that didn't happen. Miuccia hit all the right notes. Loved the skirts with the stripes. Loved the handkerchiefs and the socks! It could all went so deeply wrong but it's Miuccia that we're talking about. The woman makes no mistakes.



the set and even Moss can't pull this look. It's so not working for me

Then I have to say something about Louis Vuitton. Marc outdid himself this season with the sets. In his own brand and at LV the sets were amazing. I really liked his collection but what he did for LV was kinda boring. I miss the old LV days where Marc used to  made some of the most amazing things. But this pj's stuff and lingerie... I mean, it's only amazing because it has a LV stamp on it. You could find some of the pieces at Intimissimi or other lingerie shop and would not have to pay 10000 dollars for it. But loved the set.

So many things to talk about, god!
Malgosia's in marble and fugly shoes

Alexander Wang presented his debut collection for Balenciaga and it wasn't that bad. I have to admit I was expecting a lot worse. It had few looks. I didn't understand that one well. It was obviously inspired by marble. Lawl. While the shoes were hideous, I liked some of the tops. It's not near as good as a Ghesquière collection would be, but I'm not gonna be bitter about it. It's a good collection.



Talking about bitterness: HEDI SLIMANE. OH-MY-GOD! I have no word to describe what he's doing to Saint Laurent. I mean, this second collection… Really? Is he alright? Gurl went nuts. It's so irrelevant that hurts. I'm starting to think that he lost he's touch and he's still stuck to the past. Grunge is dead. Punk rock is dead. I mean, you want punk rock you go to Vivienne Westwood. She can do punk. You want grunge you go to Zara or H&M. Not to Saint Laurent. I mean, can you imagine Catherine Deneuve wearing anything from the collection? It was just a mess. Yves is rolling in his grave.





☠☠☠Hedi Slimane ruining dreams for a Saint Laurent custumer☠☠☠
Saskia with terrible hair and Mariacarla wearing f/w 2011 lawl


To finish: I say meh at Givenchy (crying inside, so many things gone wrong: the hair, the prints… It's like he glued all the past collections together), loved the shoes at Stella McCartney. Comme des Garçons was awesome. Rei Kawakubo did it again, almost.

Haider Ackermann is solid and beautiful. Raf Simons show more of himself at Dior which I still don't know if I like or not.

Stella's shoes ✌




Balmain
❤❤❤Felipe Oliveira Baptista's awesomeness❤❤❤





Balmain in starting to be a mess, AGAIN! Olivier Rousteing is such a cool guy but I'm afraid he's just one trick pony. And the oversized clothes, please, enough. Stop interfering Emmanuelle Alt!









































And last but not least I loved, as always Felipe Oliveira Baptista.
The final dresses…
#Breathless. 


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BORING MILAN

at Prada by Fabien Baron


this is crazy and i like it.
boring Armani, but cute dress though
❤❤❤❤
this is crazy but i like it part 2
Milan fashion week this season was a complete disaster. There was nothing showstopper that made me jump of my seat. I thought about doing this post or not, because it'd be so hard to choose my favorites. I mean, where can I begin?
Giorgio Armani was the same, again. Emporio Armani, was the same, again. And 84 looks? Really? Ain't nobody got time for that. Gucci had a great S/S collection last season. I loved that collection and damn it Frida Giannini went back to what she knows best. This brow-less thing is so boring, it's so last decade. Please stop.
I'm not even going to talk about Dolce and Gabbana. For god sake, please, stop. We get it, you're Sicilian!
Prada was cool but I loved the set more than the clothes. I mean, I really liked it but it was nothing compared to the excitement of last season. Still obsessed with the geisha thing. Versace was a little to spring-ish for my taste, I would have expected more fur. But I guess I can see it rocking some editorials. At least I know Emmanuelle Alt is going to use it. I thought Fendi was funny. You can't go wrong with Karl. But just like I said in the begining, Milan sucked. Bye.



Gucci. Meh/Cute
love the detail, not the look

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LET LONDON TEACH YOU ABOUT YOUTH

Edie, Kristen and Saskia backstage at Giles


Kristen making everyone know that the show had started
Kristen making everyone know the show was over





 ⚔⚔⚔⚔







Here come the londoners! Ah! How I like London fashion week! There's nothing more refresing that LFW! It's so cool. When you think of Paris fashion week you think about rich people's dresses and what's going to be Karl Lagerfeld's next runway set. When you think of Milan fashion week you think about a contemporary women who aren't affraid of anything. And NY, we'll it's just too boring. But London it remindes you of youth and modernity and art and shit that is cool!
 
Giles has been one of my favorite designers from London. I always like his collections. I think they're creative and I would use the shit out of it if I was a stylist. I don't really understand why Londoners don't have a big projection outside, except Burberry.

And he opened AND CLOSED his show with Kristen McMenamy.
Hello? Another legend coming through!


Anja wearing an amazing pair of boots by TF

this print is sick
In other news I liked Tom Ford's collection. I know. It was meant to be a disaster but It kind of worked for me in some ways.
The fur, the prints, the Linchenstiend inspiration... It's all too much. But I kind of like it because of that. It's too much, It's so Tom Ford.
It reminded me in some strange way his glory years at Gucci and Saint Laurent. I can see Anna Dello Russo orgasming over these boots! And Carine rocking this in her fashion book.
❤ Boots! Coat! ❤
I'm obsessed with the boots! And the colours!






















(this post is going to be huge)



♆♆♆


JW Anderson


Simone Rocha. ♥skirt♥










Simone Rocha, JW Anderson!
Ah! Nothing in common! Only marvelous collections!
Zara should start copying more Simone Rocha. I think it's so sweet and awesome! So girlie!

And JW is such a interesting designer. He's menswear show was something from the other world. When the fashion world only thinks of selling and safe collections the boy pulls a creative! And I love it. He's not going to sell any of the pieces and I want to believe that they will be featured in some editorials, but damn, that's setting the bar a little higher!


I'll have to stop otherwise this will never end.

✩✩✩
Christopher Kane


















































And ah! Christopher Kane is amazing. Bye!

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✝WE COME IN PEACE✝


New York fashion week always bores me to death. I'm not going to say that these season everything changed. It didn't. But something happened! I have a love/hate relatioship with Marc Jacobs. And for a few seasons it's been eerrm... hmmm.. aammm.. blah. But I have to be honest and he delivered a really cool collection. It liked pretty much everything about it. I was going to pull my favs for this post, my boys from Proenza Schouler but then Marc hit me in the face with this set and this collection. Bang! And that's that.


Magdalena rocking her faux fur and Maria Borges
I liked the fact the most of the models had nothing to cover their legs. Legs everywhere for winter from Mr. Jacobs. I also like the fur animals (were they real? ew). That hair is kind of everywhere now. I've seen it on previews from Carine's fashion book issue two and in other shows and editorials. Bowie's hair is back, I guess. Also liked the fabric choice. That liquid fabric was stunning. And the set, omg the set, have you seen the set. I really liked the mood. And the set. And Maria Borges was there! OMG! I was so excited when I saw her walking in her fancy Marc Jacobs PJ's!



 ✞


Sasha










After giving Marc the award for best collection I have to talk about my dear and lovely duo Jack and Lazaro from Proenza Schouler. I am a true PS fan. In all senses. They design a contemporary woman. I'm so sad they don't do menswear. I would love to see that happen.
Sasha opened the fucking show? What about that? That was unexpected! But awesome. It's always awesome to see queen Sasha strutting her way through the catwalk. ❤❤❤


 

And the feathery skirts? Oh damn jesus it's a fiyah! Loved them. ❤
cool dress









Then, in second place we have the great, the amazing, the fascinating Proenza Schouler. Ugh. It was so good. It's like I can always count on them to make NYFW good. This season they brought their A-game, as usual, and created something so cool! And what about Sasha opening the show? Say whaaaat? Yap. It happened. As usual I love the structure of the clothes, the colours, the casting, the hair, the shoes, the make up, and those mother fucking feather skirts. Everything was on the right place. Once again I'm clapping for Proenza!









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