INDIE FASHION IN PARIS


Suvi Koponen by Mert & Marcus for Vogue Paris September 2012
I've said many things about Emmanuelle Alt. Most of them weren't words of encouragement. Mostly it was hard critics and how she's not Carine. And she'll never be. But recently I read something about Emm and it all made sense in my head. Emmanuelle Alt is indie. She's an indie fashion editor. That totally suits her. 
Saskia De Brauw by Mert & Marcus for Vogue Paris September 2012
She's been trying for a while now to shed Carine shadow of the magazine, and she's been successful at that. I've said many times, and I'll say it again. I think she's an amazing stylist. She has an amazing sense of style and knows what is happening in the world. Is it enough for me? No. But that doesn't mean she's not able to create wonderful pictures. I just think of vogue paris more sexy rebel than indie-chic. But that's just me. I mean she "said" herself by putting Gisele all natural on her first cover, giving her the gypsy look. And done that again, and again. She's an indie girl. Although I like that, cause I think that's very cool an indie vogue, how amazing and shit like that, it's just not vogue paris. Vogue paris is not indie, it's daring. it's sexy. it's fucking paris come on!!
Although the cover idea was a flop for me I have to hand it to Emm for this September issue. She slayed all the editorials. Everything looks amazing. Everything is extraordinary. Is it Carine? No, not a bit. But it's good. I guess I can say now that Emmanuelle has two distinct looks: the hippie-chic-natural beauty and the over the top dramatic styling. I absolutely love this September issue of vogue paris. all of it. I just wish it could like this every month.

Saskia De Brauw and Kate Moss by Mert & Marcus for Vogue Paris September 2012


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THE NEW PRINCES



Left to right: Kim Jones and Olivier Rousteing
I've been thinking about saying something about these two for a long time and I don't know why I didn't do it sooner. They are the most amazing hirings of the year. Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton Menswear was just the thing LV was missing. His collections were wonderful and I never in my whole life wanted to have so many LV pieces. His interpretation of the Vuitton man is refreshing, contemporary and very, very desirable. I want it all.
Then we have the big revelation. Yeah, you read right. Olivier Rouseing for me is a revelation. No one expected anything from him and he hit us right in the face. And he proves that young people can do great work, you just got to let them work! The former Christophe Decarnin assistant showed he had the vision and knowledge to stay and lead the house of Balmain to a greater path. Obsessed doesn't even begin to describe my love for his designs. His past collections were everything Balmain nowadays should be. And you will never hear this from me again but those brow cuts are so sexy! I never thought someone could pull it off. But he definitely can. 
Congratulations to them both, can't wait to see more collections!


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EMMANUELLE ALT IS BORING

Daria Werbowy, Kate Moss and Lara Stone by Mert & Marcus for Vogue Paris September 2012
Seriously Emmanuelle? Seriously? This is the best you can do for the September issue? Put three amazing super models on the cover with the same dress? What are you trying to say? A dress fits different on every woman? I mean, I don't get it.
As you know my love for Emmanuelle Alt is non-existent. After so many boring issues I've lost faith in Vogue Paris... But fuck me, it's the September issue! The biggest one! She choose the best models on Earth. She choose one of the most amazing fall looks and what does she do? THIS! 
I don't even know why I'm surprised. I have to stop hoping for the best from Emmanuelle. She is such an amazing stylist but she is so boring. Vogue Paris is epicness. Vogue Paris on September is ultra epic. And this is just big blah. Seriously Emm get it together. I just don't know what to say anymore. It's so disappointing.


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SEPTEMBER FEVER!

Lady Gaga by Mert & Marcus for Vogue US September 2012
Well hello there Gaga! First let's hand it to Anna Wintour for choosing Gaga for the September cover. I don't care if you like Gaga or not but you have to admit that is daring of Wintour to put Gaga on the cover again. And it's the September issue! Damn woman you are manking bold choices. Who are you and what did you do with Anna?
In other news I'm not so excited about the 200 pounds of advertising and other shit that the magazine will feature. AND I'm not crazy about that ribbon or what the hell is that behind the letters. I don't get it. I thought it was photoshoped into the picture, but it is in the making of video... So it's real and was intended. Who knows... Other than that loving everything from the hair to the dress (I don't know why everyone seems to hate Marc's latest collection!!). When I heard Gaga was covering the September issue I was expecting something crazier but this is fine. It's already crazy that she is one the cover. Anna can't do two amazing things in the same issue.
And so it begins! All the September issues are coming and it's that time of the year that I go broke. I have to have them all. All of them... They're mine! I'll admit without shame that I'm not a Vogue US fan. Never was, never will be (as long Anna is there). But I'll buy this one because Gaga is the staaaar. 
Vogue US is so overshadowed from all the advertisement. Sometimes there are many beautiful pictures there (GRAAAACE I'M WITH YOU GURL!) but are always overshadowed by some fancy celeb on the cover. Boring, boring and boring. But it sells and it keeps on selling. So Anna, you're right. But don't expect my applause every time. 


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R.I.P.

There are one less interesting person on Earth. I'm not going to write a biography, go to wikipedia for that. I'm just sad. Sad that nowadays are less and less people like her. 


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MAISON SLIMANE


I'm not going to get into the fights fan girls and fan boys are having because the new logo looks like Gap logo and blah blah blah. I think that is kinda silly. If you remember before the brand was called Yves Saint Laurent it was called just Saint Lauren.
So Mr. Slimane did some changes. Was it good? I don't really know! It was a very interesting choice for replacing Pilati. A really bold choice. Because if you don't know Hedi Slimane never designed womenswear publicly! So why the hell was he hired in the first place? Some one must have seen something! Something very good I hope. Talk about excitement to see that show. Now that Raf Simons presented his first Dior show all eyes are on Hedi Slimane and Maison Saint Laurent.
I can see why Slimane did this. Going back to the past but looking into the future. I know, I know, but I'm not so sure about it. I don't mind so much about the name change. Nicola Formichetti did the same when he started at Mugler. He dropped the Thierry. And I think that's fine, dropping the Yves, for more freedom of creation and letting go of the ghost Yves was on the brand. But they didn't change the logo! And I can see why, it's so fucking iconic. They didn't change the logo and that doesn't really makes sense for me. If you want change, change it all. 
I can't express my exciment over Hedi Slimane collection. I know it's going to be very different from what we are used to. Aaah, who am I kidding. Nobody fucking knows. Please, can't Paris fashion week come any sooner?


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I MISS CARINE

Kati Nescher by Sebastian Faena for CR Fashion Book f/w 2012
It's almost here. God, I really miss Carine. Her style, her pictures, her imagination... Vogue Paris was never the same. Emmanuelle is a good stylist but she can't create amazingness like Carine can. I'm so bored with Vogue Paris that I stopped buying it. So glad I have lots of Carine's Vogues...
It's just boring having to wait for a campaign or a special shoot to see what Carine is doing. I really miss that monthly enthusiasm of waiting for something new from her. She's one of the best image creators. Can't wait to see more stuff from her new magazine.


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COUTURE!

Armani Privé F/W 2012

Best couture in ages! I love couture, it's just what my dreams are made of. And these season it was amamamamzing. I have so many things to say! I know couture week its over almost a week now but I'm been so busy. But those outfits were in my mind 24/7.
Let's just start by saying Armani Privé killed it. Slayed it. Destroyed everyone else. King Giorgio is always king and always will be. His vision is one of the most contemporary. I'm obsessed with those veils! I don't think you can understand the level of obsession I'm going through. I would wear that everyday. I would pay for someone to wear that everyday. I would pay the whole world to wear that everyday. Truly beautiful. Stun-ning. The whole show was truly beautiful. All the clothes were very wearable (as usual for King Giorgio), but these season everything was very wearable.
Couture has become very wearable. All the big brands are starting to create wearable couture. Which it's not very wealthy for me. We already have two seasons and pre-falls and pre-springs of ready to wear we don't need couture to be ready to wear. Couture is about dreams. But let's not discuss this now.
 Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture F/W 2012

Can we just take a moment to appreciate those crystal masks? I mean, can we? It's just amazing. I don't know what's going on with me these couture week but I'm having a relationship to anything that covers the models face. I also died for Giambattist Valli masks and also in Dior. It's the couture season accessory: masks! 

 Giambattist Valli Haute Couture F/W 2012
 Jantaminiau Haute Couture F/W 2012


Giambasttist was truly wonderfull. It could all go very, very wrong. All those butterflies and and the net masks could be a big cliche but it didn't! It was very mesmerizing and wonderfull to see those dresses. But it kind of felt a little Spring-ish... with all those insects and flowers. Jantaminiau was also a really good show. It was all about the circus. Very, very exciting. I can only praise the designers work.
Dior Haute Couture by Raf Simons F/W 2012
Did you see the amount of very important people that attend Raf Simons first show? Fashion royalty was all there. From NY to Milan to London, everyone who is anyone was there to see Raf's designs. And they did not regret it I believe. Raf went to the very basic Dior silluette and recreated with a ultra clean and modern twist. I'm guilty, I love Raf's work so I was very happy when I heard he was going to Dior (I miss John Galliano so, so much), it's so good to see new ideas, fresh designs. Also Raf's collection felt a little Spring-ish to mee also. But those colours! That yellow! That red! Speechless.

Serkan Cura Haute Couture F/W 2012
 
Serkan Cura was so fascinating. Those outfits were made for gods! All those feathers. I'm such a feather lover I instantly fell in love with the clothes. Basil Soda was also excellent. Loved the details. Stephane Rolland was great. Very, very great. It was so hard to only pick one favourite. It's just impossible. 

Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture F/W 2012
To end things I picked Iris Van Herpen. She is wonderful. Words can't describe my admiration for her work. She is the true couturier. When I dream about couture Iris is always there. I mean, take a look at that dress. That is art. That is true expression and creativity. There is no one like her. It looks like a coral reef. It looks like a statue from a fountain of Versailles. Please love her. 
I know Givenchy it's not here. Although my love for Riccardo Tisci is eternal these season couture was to wearable for me. I loved every detail of it and all the vibe. I even loved the dog. But that's ready to wear and if you don't believe it, the dog is there for a reason, that is a garment made for a very stylish and powerful women to walk her dog. That's all folks. 



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FALL LATESTS

Anniek Kortleve, Hirschy Hirschfelder and Linn Arvidsson by Steven Meisel for Balenciaga F/W 2012-2013

Words cannot describe my obsession for Balenciaga fall collection. It's pure amazingness. I never, never would have imagined the collection on this background but it works! It's perfect. It's so cowboys and aliens. Future western! Love it!
Chanel was a big disappointment. Didn't get it. What's going on Karl? Lost your imagination? Love the set on the runway. All those crystals... I was expecting something really breathtaking. A cave, giant crystals, Saskia coming out of a cave. I don't know. I expected everything except this white background.
Miu Miu was interesting as well. I'm not sure if I like it or not, but that's why I like it. Because the image didn't left my mind. I'm still thinking about Chloe Sevigny drinking tea in that hotel room.
I think that's all folks. The campaigns are out, if not all, almost all of them. Couture week is happening and I'm loving it. I'll be back with my favs.


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IN LOVE WITH THE CLASSICS

Simon Nessman and Aymeline Valade by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott for Giorgio Armani F/W 2012-2013

I know what you're thinking. How can these be my favorite campaign if it's so simple? Well that's why I like it. It's really strong and simple. It was the Armani stamp all over it. It's so classic, it's so Armani. I love the one with Simon Nessman. I will not defend myself for loving pure genius. 
Louis Vuitton also arrived and it's really cool. I like it when Marc goes all the way in the collections and he did it. The images reflect the collection perfectly. The images reflect more than the collection, they reflect the mood Marc was trying to create. Well done, well done.
Prada really bored me. I was hopping for something really eccentric with all those patterns but nothing happened. Same style, same shit. You are failing me Miuccia! Let's wait and see what's more to come. I am very curious to see what Karl Lagerfeld will do. And I wanna see Miu Miu as well. Oh! And of course, Givenchy. 


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THE KING IS STILL MISSING

Kate Moss @ John Galliano S/S 94
Recently I watched a documentary about Christy Turlington. One of the scenes gave me so much nostalgia. It was the high point of Galliano's career. He was starting he's kingdom and becoming slowly the king of Paris. Now where is he? Nowhere to be found. I really miss Galliano. That show, was so amazing, and that picture of Kate is even more epic.
I really hope John makes a come back and steals our heart away. There is no one like him at all. He is the master genius of creation and craftsman. It is so sad to see his house under Gaytten hands. He was his assistant, he can't create what John creates. Please, someone in some superior place, make John come back. We need him, we miss him.


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DYING GAULTIER

Still from How To Do That by Jean Paul Gaultier

I think Jean Paul Gaultier needs a major re-vamp. It's always the same and it's boring. It all looks the same right now. Get it together JP and start doing something cool. 


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THE NEW SEASON

 Anna De Riik and Paolo Anchisi by Alasdair McLellan for Emporio Armani F/W 2012/2013

Finally the fall/winter 2012/2013 are starting to arrive! This is by far my favorite moment. Being able to see how the creative directors will interpret the clothes and create beautiful images. This being said I have to give a virtual hi5 to Christopher Bailey and uncle Mario that finally did something different. It's not that different, but at least feels fresh and new. Loving the dark vibe. Prada menswear was a big disappointment but I'm still hoping for the womenswear campaign. Another almost hit was Versace. I want to see more pictures! And winning them all is the king Giorgio himself. Loved that he hired Alasdair McLellan. I've been loving his pictures for a few months. He deserves a big break like this. So, let's wait and see, there's a lot more coming! 


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LET'S GO CRUISING





Uncle Karl can't do wrong. It's amazing how he is still able to reinvent Chanel, season after season. Everything about this show was gold. Marie Antoinette turned rockstar. Loved it heat to toe. This makes me think about what will be of Chanel without Karl...


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FROM ANOTHER WORLD

Sebastian Sauvé by Gregory Vaughan backstage at Number Lab; Eniko Mihalik by Camilla Akrans for Vogue Germany
Sebastian and Eniko are two of my all time favorite models. Why? Just look at those faces! It's unreal how beautiful they are. It's like they are from another world or something. Those features, those bones structure. I'm in awe since I layed my eyes on them. 


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DOUTZEN GONE MISSING

Doutzen Kroes by David Sims for Vogue Paris April 2012

That awkward moment when you go through Vogue Paris looking for Doutzen Kroes and what you get is Arizona Muse.  I rest my case.


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