 |
| From left to right: Nastya Kusakina, Sigrid Agren and Frida Gustavsson @ Alexander McQueen F/W 2012-2012 |
 |
| From left to right: Yulia Serzhantova, Hanne Gaby Odiele and Kremi Otashliyska @ Balenciaga F/W 2012-2013 |
 |
| From left to right: Nadja Bender and Julia Frauche @ Balmain F/W 2012-2013 |
 | |
| From left to right: Montana Cox, Julia Nobis and Magda Laguinge @ Chanel F/W 2012-2013 |
Oh Paris (and so you're back/from outer space)! Finally! Let's start right away. So many things to say! This season I got a sense of outer space in all the collections. Maybe I'm just going crazy but that's what I felt. And you can see for yourself that they fit just right in the Death Star picture I put on the background. It was so difficult to chose just one look that I decided to chose more than one, fuck it, it's Paris. I don't care.
Finally McQueen killed it. Finally! I was amazed by Sarah Burton. Thank god. It still is not McQueen, but if you forget about that and focus on Burton you'll love every little piece she created. Flowers! So many beuatiful and deadly flowers she made this season. I really missed this feeling of enthusiast after a McQueen show. I think this collection is Burton's best work to date. It really is. This girls are the garden of the Death Star, with those glasses they look really from space! they are they flowers of Darth Vader - beautiful and lethal.
That aside, the next great thing about Paris was Balenciaga and Balmain. I have to confess, I have a soft spot for Nicolas Ghesquiere. I do not care if you hate it or love it. I just understand and admire his vision. This season the coats were amamamamazing. And how fun was those sweaters? I didn't see that one coming from Balenciaga. That's what I like more about a fashion show - surprises.
At Balmain things started to changed since Christophe Decarni left and now I think it is clear that it was a good choice. Balmain was starting to get boring and predictable. At last Olivier Rousteing amazed me whit this collection. Everything about it was right. The spirit of Balmain was there, but so much lighter and up to date. It reminded me as well a little bit of the Dolce and Gabbana show but in a good way. This is baroque done well. Take notes Stefano and Domenico.
At the end of Paris fashion week uncle Karl took us on a journey to the center of earth. In my head he took me to the Death Star power engines. Those crystals are the main power force of the Death Star. I really liked the fact that it had more colours than usual. I was getting bored of so much gray. Karl never lets me down. He's such a hard worker. He can dissect an idea to the root and then recreate it in a million ways. That's why his Chanel collections are always so big, just like the sets.
Formichetti presented his best collection to date. Let's be honest for a minute and admit that Formichetti does not work alone at Mugler. I hate when I only see his name on reviews. He and Sebastian Peigne presented their best collection to date. I loved all the white. Right now I'm going trough a white obsession so Mugler just felt right. It was very difficult to choose just one look from the show. I picked five and I'm still thinking it wasn't enough. And I loved that the collection was just black and white. But those whites....they were so strong! Totally fits on the Death Star.
Another good surprise was Vikor & Rolf. It's been a while since I felt something about these two. The last thing I can think of them is those jackets with NO and YES on... Oh, and some red faces. They had a nice jacked in that collection as well. Back to the point: their collection is the one that stands out the most of the Death Star, but still, I think we can work something there, some kind of section in the Death Star offices where these looks would fit just right. I loved the colours, I loved the fur and I loved Karlie (and I'm not a follower of Karlie Kloss, I don't suffer from the Kloss effect). She looked amazing.
I have to say something about Louis Vuitton. I'm totally against designers having two brands to design. I think there's no designer, except Karl Lagarfeld, who can work on two or more fashion houses and not mix ideas. Everything is going to look like the same in the end. I just can't stand it. I think there's no one who saw the LV show and didn't see the similarities between LV and Marc Jacobs main line. So the question is: who got the left overs? Marc's or Vuitton's?
I just think it isn't right. There's so many designers that we don't need to have the same person working on two mega fashion houses. I think Marc should dedicate himself to Vuitton and get his life some rest. Can you imagine if Marc gets Dior? He will reign fashion world! And we would see everything look the same! See for example Karl Lagerfeld: he can work on separate ideas at the same time and not mix them together. You can see Chanel and you can see Fendi: there's nothing in common. And the most interesting thing is that he sometimes puts his own brand to rest. Sometimes, Lagarfeld does not show anything. Because he respects his work for Chanel and Fendi more. I just think that's the right thing to do. I'm bored of watching Marc Jacobs shows and then in the of Paris fashion week Vuitton always seems to be the left overs of the other show. Sad, sad, sad. Even with the amazing set budgets and ideas I can't get over the similarities. The same is applicable to Prada and Miu Miu (it does not happen all the time, but sometimes it's just too similar). I know Miu Miu is connected to Prada but I think that's no excuse. And Miu Miu has already its own identity and by that I don't mean that's its the daughter of Prada. It is now equally to Prada in terms of business, so there's no excuse for similarities in two totally different lines.
Other shows I liked were Haider Hackermann, Garet Pugh, Jean Paul Gaultier and Lanvin. And can we do a standing ovattion to Kenzo? This was Humberto Leon and Carol Lim second season as creative directors and Kenzo is officially back in business! I died with the menswear collection and the womenswear was no different. They gave Kenzo a new sense of cool, which had been lost a long time ago. That's all folks!
///
 |
| From left to right: Marte Mei van Haaster, Julia Nobis, Alla Kostromicheva, Olivia Thornthon and Andie Arthur @ Mugler F/W 2012-2013 |
 |
| From left to right: Suzie Bird, Jamie Bochert, Bette Franke and Karlie Kloss @ Viktor & Rolf F/W 2012-2013 |
Another good surprise was Vikor & Rolf. It's been a while since I felt something about these two. The last thing I can think of them is those jackets with NO and YES on... Oh, and some red faces. They had a nice jacked in that collection as well. Back to the point: their collection is the one that stands out the most of the Death Star, but still, I think we can work something there, some kind of section in the Death Star offices where these looks would fit just right. I loved the colours, I loved the fur and I loved Karlie (and I'm not a follower of Karlie Kloss, I don't suffer from the Kloss effect). She looked amazing.
I have to say something about Louis Vuitton. I'm totally against designers having two brands to design. I think there's no designer, except Karl Lagarfeld, who can work on two or more fashion houses and not mix ideas. Everything is going to look like the same in the end. I just can't stand it. I think there's no one who saw the LV show and didn't see the similarities between LV and Marc Jacobs main line. So the question is: who got the left overs? Marc's or Vuitton's?
I just think it isn't right. There's so many designers that we don't need to have the same person working on two mega fashion houses. I think Marc should dedicate himself to Vuitton and get his life some rest. Can you imagine if Marc gets Dior? He will reign fashion world! And we would see everything look the same! See for example Karl Lagerfeld: he can work on separate ideas at the same time and not mix them together. You can see Chanel and you can see Fendi: there's nothing in common. And the most interesting thing is that he sometimes puts his own brand to rest. Sometimes, Lagarfeld does not show anything. Because he respects his work for Chanel and Fendi more. I just think that's the right thing to do. I'm bored of watching Marc Jacobs shows and then in the of Paris fashion week Vuitton always seems to be the left overs of the other show. Sad, sad, sad. Even with the amazing set budgets and ideas I can't get over the similarities. The same is applicable to Prada and Miu Miu (it does not happen all the time, but sometimes it's just too similar). I know Miu Miu is connected to Prada but I think that's no excuse. And Miu Miu has already its own identity and by that I don't mean that's its the daughter of Prada. It is now equally to Prada in terms of business, so there's no excuse for similarities in two totally different lines.
Other shows I liked were Haider Hackermann, Garet Pugh, Jean Paul Gaultier and Lanvin. And can we do a standing ovattion to Kenzo? This was Humberto Leon and Carol Lim second season as creative directors and Kenzo is officially back in business! I died with the menswear collection and the womenswear was no different. They gave Kenzo a new sense of cool, which had been lost a long time ago. That's all folks!