BUYING THE CRITICS

Left to right: Cathy Horyn, Bryan Boy and Tim Blanks.
    Recently Jean Paul Gaultier lashed out to Tim Blanks about Blanks review on his latest couture show. Tim, which is one of the critics that I take most in consideration, only said the truth about Gaultier show. JPG in my opinion is nearly dead. Tim was right, he was once one of the best and now he is almost irrelevant. Which is sad. But for Gaultier to feel the need to lash out to Blanks the way that he did was so... tacky. And for a designer like JPG to feel that way about a critic is not good. It's like JPG is questioning his work.
    Anyway... This has been a huge deal for me since I got into fashion. The critics. Because I looked everywhere for good reviews of the shows and honest opinions and I couldn't find any. It was like critics were afraid to say it was bad. I didn't understand it. Sometimes it was so obvious that the collections were lacking something or the designer's work was just a mess.
    Then I found out Cathy Horyn. I read a lot of what she wrote, and Suzy Menkes too (although I think Suzy is a bit less sassy than sister Cathy). I like Cathy Horyn. I don't agree with her every single time but I like that she has the balls to say what she thinks. Cathy has been banned from many shows for bad reviews. That's just nonsense. For a designer to feel that frustrated with a critic. I know artists have huge egos but this is just nonsense. I follow Cathy's posts on NYTimes.com.
    Then, it came Bryan Boy. The boy who had nothing and now has everything. Is he still a blogger? Does he still have an opinion? I don't think so. He's a sold out. He is Jacobs favourite blogger and receives little gifts from all the major brands. Which basically means that he can't say negative things about the designers work.
    Then I found out one reasonable critic. The guy who stands in the middle of a sold out and the devil. The guy who is not afraid to say it's bad when it's bad, and the guy who doesn't look like a complete sold out from head to toe. Talking about Tim Blanks here!
    That's why I got so sad when I read that open letter JPG wrote to Tim Blanks. What the actual fuck? It seems that a journalist can't be honest otherwise it's banned from watching the show... It's like a designer is a spoiled child and can't hear a bad thing about his work. We all know that not all collections are good. Even the greatest designers have, from time to time, less interesting collections. That's normal, they're human beings. To lash out to the critics and journalists just for being honest is something that makes me sick. Most of the journalists or critics are too afraid to say anything bad, otherwise they might not be invited to the show next season. It feels like there are less and less honest critics in the fashion world.
    People like Cathy Horyn make me believe that it's possible to be honest in the fashion business. It's possible to have an opinion and stick with it and not be afraid. I'm not really into writing reviews of shows or even being a fashion journalist. Fashion is just something that I really like and I just can't be silent about what's going on around me so... I had to say something.


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