THE FALL IN MILAN

Kolfinna Kristófersdóttir @ Emilio Pucci F/W 2012-2013

Kolfinna Kristófersdóttir @ Moschino F/W 2012-2013

Arizona Muse @ Roberto Cavalli F/W 2012-2013

Dark was the night. That's was the headline for this fashion week. The streets of Milan were dark and mysterious. Black is back, definitely. This fall, Milan, was the darkest city. Soldiers of all time and eras came on the runways fierce and almost sanguinary (dare I). The feeling I got from most of the shows, mostly Versace, was that this women warriors were coming back home after a long and hard battle. Yeah, Versace was big on that scenery. Forget the catwalk, imagine the girls in a huge group marching home, it's more appropriate.

That said, I have to say that I was expecting more of Milan. I mean, there were some great pieces but in general it was kind of...blah. Normally I get impressed really easy (don't know if that's a good or a bad thing) and this time nothing stroke me. I wasn't hit by fashion lightning like previously. 

The dress I thought was the most beautiful was made by Peter Dundas for Emilio Pucci. I stared at the dress for a couple of minutes and I knew it that it was going to be the high point of my experience in Milan this season. Typically I'm not a Pucci lover. But this collection, Dundas, really covered it up a little more (not that was needed, but was a nice change) and the sensuality changed. It was more sensual than the dresses from previous collections. But that's me and my love for transparency. 

Other surprise was Moschino. Like Pucci, I'm not a huge fan of Moschino but sometimes they just do it... I don't know. Sometimes it works for me. There were nothing at this fashion week that made me die, crawl, go to heave, etc. The thing this fashion week for me was the details... I was more fascinated by the details of the clothes than by the clothes itself.

Just in a few words to avoid being boring: Cavalli the same thing. Boring collection, cool dress. I like the fact that they all are really dark and mysterious. Makes me wonder who would wear them and what do they will have to hide behind their eyes. Moving on!

Bette Franke @ Dolce and Gabbana F/W 2012-2013

Yulia Kharlapanova @ Gucci F/W 2012-2013

Saskia De Brauw @ Fendi F/W 2012-2013

Hedvig Palm @ Jil Sander F/W 2012-2013

So, Dolce and Gabbana... I'm going to be really honest. I think it's cheap. And the whole Italian/Sicilian women it's starting to become really boring. Cheap is not necessarily a bad thing. I like cheap, sometimes. The thing is that Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana sometimes go too deep into the cheap well. That being said, I liked the details more than the dress itself, again. The same for most of the collection. After five looks I'm vomiting gold. But it wasn't as bad as the men. I really likes those white and blue shoes as well. 

In Giannini's collection things were better. But not great! I think Gucci was the only show that made me smile. Loved the leather, velvet (oh my god!). The mixing of the different textures was really interesting. The last dresses made me remember last fall. That is good and that is bad. It's good because I loved that collection. It's bad because it's last fall. They felt as they belonged in that collection and not in this one. But hat jumpsuit made me dream a little bit.

Back to Fendi. Big surprise, not expecting this animalistic vibe. So much fur! This contemporary cave woman look. Really liked that coat on Saskia. It reminds me of a butterfly or a moth's wings. And at last but not least there is Mr. Simons last collection for Jil Sander. The most beautiful thing was the set. Those flower arrangements! They were really beautiful. Some say it was a bit dramatic, some say it was beautiful. Much was written about the authenticity of the tears. Loved the metallic shades a shapes. The last three looks were amazing and this dress is really cute. Yes, cute is the right word. Let's wait for Paris. In Paris I always dream a little bigger.

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SAD GOODBYES

Raf Simons last show for Jil Sander, F/W 2012-2013

Raf Simons left Jil Sander. This was quite a shock. I'm still surprised this happened. But when you think about the big picture it kind of makes sense. But, of course, it is not confirmed that he is going to Dior, blah, blah, blah. 

It's just sad to imagine Jil Sander without Mr. Simons. He's been there since 2005 and he set the bar really, really high. I think it's not very smart of Ms. Sander to return to the brand she created. I think it is not very smart of all the executives to do this move. A comeback in fashion? Jil Sander coming back? Jil who? Her work (if you can remember) it's not memorable. It's just sad. I don't know. I'm a huge fan of Jil Sander by Raf Simons and now it's over. Just let me be sad for a moment. Knowing this was his last show made it so emotional, at least for me. The runway... Raf Simons saying thanks at the end... Just emotional. 

Let's wait and see what Ms. Jil Sander does. Let's wait and see what does Raf Simons has to surprise us. I'm feeling that finally Dior has a designer. I'm already imagining his new collections for Dior. Don't blame me, it's his fault, he's a fucking genius.

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WE NEED TO GO COUTURE

After reading Franca Sozzani's interview for Industrie magazine it all made sense. All these conversations about the situation of the market, the economy, the world... And those conversations that fashion is going this way, or the fashion world is going that way and no one knows where it goes and what is going to be tomorrow... It's so exhausting! And all that stuff about the world is changing so fast, we need to do something... Blah, blah, blah. We need to find a solution! Blah. We need to do something fast! Blah. But do what? Something clicked in my head. We need to go couture! Yes, that's right.  Couture is the solution of the fashion world. Get it? Wait, I can explain.

We got to a point where fashion is on a cross path. Not only fashion, everything. Technology changed the world. What will happen to print? What will happen to brands when we live in a world where you can buy at H&M your favorite designers? What happened to exclusivity? These questions are everywhere, I've seen and read enough about it. We need to go couture! That is the solution. 

As Franca was saying, the magazine itself is a vision of fashion (that was the first click). The magazine should be visionary (second click). Visionarie is (more than) a magazine created by Stephen Gan, Cecilia Dean and James Kaliardos in the 90's. It's a vision. Magazines need to be more than magazines. We can see everything on-line for free so why buy? Most of us can't afford to collect all the magazines, and they are so many and so good and bad at the same time it hurts. Why keep doing the magazines the way we do if that is not working? Now is the time to maximize everything. Make it memorable. Make it timeless. Make it epic. We have to make magazine interesting enough to be bought by people. People need to want to buy magazines. People need to want to collect magazines. But why buy or collect something that is merely paper? Why buy a GQ? Why buy Vogue US? Why collect something that is not a timeless piece of work and art? Magazines need to have things that we cannot have on-line. Magazines must offer a different experience than the on-line world gives. They need to change and they need to change now.

I remember once reading one of the many interviews Carine Roitfeld gave after leaving Vogue Paris and everyone was wondering and asking what will she do next. Her answer was what I'm trying to say in this post. She is putting together a dream team and she is creating more than a magazine. She is creating an artistic object. 

Magazines should be like haute couture. They have to stop pleasing the whole world and focus on a small group of people who are extremely interested in that precise magazine. They have to create in order to satisfy those specific clients. They have to fit the client just like a glove.

We have enough magazines to please every single person in the world. The problem is that all magazines are trying to please everyone. And that is major chaos. There are too many images being made. There is too much information. It's just nonsense. Stop everything. You're blinding me with so many images. Focus!

I don't think printed magazines will ever end. But they have to adapt. They have to choose their audience, their specific audience. We live in a era that almost every magazine has a specific image, that pleases a specific group. So forget about everything else. I know this has consequences, you can't simply make a magazine just for ten people, otherwise it will go broke, blah, blah, blah. This different groups of people are growing faster. For example, I buy a lot of magazines. I mean a lot. Like myself there are millions who do that. And by being in a specific group that doesn't mean I'm not in any other group. In other words, I buy Italian Vogue and I buy V Magazine. Two completely different magazines.

Basically what I'm trying to say is that we're stepping in on a new era. New things will happen. New thing are happening! Some things won't survive and other things will adapt and evolve, just like everything else in life. The consequences of this new era we're facing are serious. We're talking extinction.  We must change the way we do things. Magazines have to stop being magazines and become objects. Magazines must be timeless, collectible, epic objects. Because they're not anymore. There's far too many magazines in the world. (I'd never thought I'd say this but) there is far too much information in the world.  Everything must become haute couture. Everything and now.

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THE FALL IN LONDON

Mary Katrantzou F/W 2012-2013

Doutzen Kroes @ Giles F/W 2012-2013

Oh London! Oh London Fashion Week! It's always so creative! So innovative! If you want to see fresh talent, fresh looks, fresh everything go to London Fashion Week. There you will find the most fascinating new designs. This season was no exception. I have to confess something. London fashion week is one of my favorites of them all. First it's London, second there's always new talent, and third, it's always so fucking awesome!

Speaking of awesome, did you see Giles Deacon show? Oh my! Those burn dresses! Who come no one ever thought of it? So amazing. When Doutzen walked down I knew it that was my favorite look. There were more burn clothes, by Doutzen's one was by far the best.

And what about Mary Katrantzou 3D clothes? That was for sure another highlight of the week. Amazing. Simply stunning. I just can't describe it. From the first look to the last one my jaw was on the floor. It's not the first time 3D clothes were made but I never saw it like this. It was really hard to choose one look. I had to watch the show so many times. I decided that that green dress was everything and I would love to have some model in in and shoot it somewhere. I would love to see that dress in some editorial. But almost everything in that collection was amazing. I would to photograph everything. Still obsessed.

Simone Rocha F/W 2012-2013

Louise Gray F/W 2012-2013

Kinga Rajzak @ Matthew Williamson F/W 2012-2013

Simone Rocha show was beautiful. Those clothes... they just felt right. I can't explain. Like Alexander Fury said "You want the whole world to look like this. Right now". And he's right once again. You really want that. Imagine what a beautiful world. So light and fresh. Ah, I really like the collection. It was really beautiful. Even nostalgic in some way that doesn't make really sense but I don't care. It felt right, just right. That is what we must aim for. That is the way.

Then we had Louise Gray and Matthew Williamson, both dazzling. Love the amount of clothes that were in Louise Gray show. And those boots? I can see them straight away in Italian Vogue or Paris Vogue. Matthew Williamson and those flashes of colour in those classic dresses was very interesting. The so boring dresses were turned alive with those sparks of colour.

Also Burberry was really boring. We could see it coming at the men show. The only thing I really liked was those long skirts. Other than that I'm beginning to think Mr. Bailey will never outdo his S/S 2011 and his F/W 2010.

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FELINE LOVER

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THE PALM TREE SYMPTOM

I've been obsessed with palm trees! I don't know, I just am. How very Versace of me. I just want to spent a month looking at these palm trees. I should go somewhere with this landscape. I'm seeing palm trees everywhere, you have no idea. Am I going crazy? Palm tree dresses, palm tree skirts, palm tree shoes. A whole collection made off palm trees. I just can't over the green. Next summer, palm trees are going to be huge, trust me!

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THE COINCIDENCES OF EMMANUELLE ALT

Emmanuelle Alt by Greg Kessler for 10 Magazine

I think being the successor of Carine Roitfeld isn't easy. When I heard Carine was leaving Paris Vogue I was panicking about the future of the magazine. What would it be of Paris Vogue without Carine? I already knew Emmanuelle Alt and her work before she was announced as the new editor in chief of Paris Vogue but I always expected Condé Nast to hire some one new. But they didn't. They gave the job to Alt and after a couple issues I was relieved that Paris Vogue was still alive. A little different, a little softer, a little hippier, but alive.

It's been almost a year since Emmanuelle took over the throne and almost ten issues were made with her name as editor and chief. In that year I've seen Alt style and taste come together to create stunning pictures. In that year I've noticed that Alt likes cowgirls! Yes! She really does like cowgirls. 

Isabeli Fontana by David Sims for Paris Vogue April 2011

Catherine McNeil by Claudia Knoepfel and Stefan Indlekofer for Paris Vogue February 2012

As you can see in less than a year Alt made sure that there was at least two inspired cowgirl editorials in the magazine. Both amazing, both stunning, but both very similar! When I noticed this similarities I realized that there was more of them trough all the issues. I think this similarities shouldn't happen, at least in the same year. 

I've found out that Emmanuelle really likes rockers. Rock and roll inspired shoots is the most easy thing to find in Paris Vogue. Sometimes are the names of the editorials, sometimes are the pictures itself that expose that love of her for rock and roll. In this latest issue (February 2012) we can see that her love for rock and roll goes to Las Vegas and has Elvis Presley in the pictures with Daria. 

From left to right: Joan Smalls by Hans Feurer for Paris Vogue; Anja Rubik by Hans Feurer for Paris Vogue, Sasha Pivovarova for Paris Vogue; Karlie Kloss by Hans Feurer for Paris Vogue.

As I looked into this coincidences I found out more and more of them! I don't understand how could I have not seen this before. When I saw this latest editorial with Karlie Kloss it all came together in my head and I said to myself "I've seen this before". I was wrong, I hadn't see it before. I had seen something very similar before, and before, and before. As you can see above, Paris Vogue works a lot with Hans Feurer and I have to praise some of the results because they are stunning but at the end of the day, more precisely, at the end of the year we got four different issues in ten that are very similar. Is it okay? Am I being a bitch about it? I don't think so. I have very high standards for Paris Vogue, more than any other magazine in fact, and it is not okay to do four similar editorials in ten. It is not okay to do two cowgirl inspired editorials in less than a year. 

If you look bellow you'll see something I was very intrigued by. When I saw the cover of November 2011 I immediately thought "Oh, I've seen this before". And This time I've had. That cover was clearly the left overs of the last month editorial! How could this be? Paris Vogue is giving me something from last month. 

Left: Arizona Muse by Inez and Vinoodh for Paris Vogue November 2011; Right: Arizona Muse by Inez and Vinoodh for Paris Vogue October 2011

As I said before, I really have high standards about Paris Vogue. And I think Emmanuelle Alt has done an amazing job with the magazine. I love the editor letter. I love that vintage feeling she brought to the magazine, although I'm not sure that will work forever. I still am in love in the Fatale editorial from October 2011 with Sasha and Anja by Mert and Marcus and that June/July cover story with Isabeli Fontana is just something from the other world.
But this is not okay. This "coincidences" are not okay. In less than a year I've spotted not just one but four similar stories. Like I said, I expect more from Paris Vogue and Emmanuelle Alt. I need more stunning editorials that don't have coincidences or similarities between them! There's so many good ideas to create a story, why am I seeing a cowgirl twice? Why am I seeing Arizona Muse smile month after month? I guess I'll never have an answer but I had to put it out. This was killing me inside. I've said it, I expect more.

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THE FALL IN NY

Gisele Bundchen @ Alexander Wang F/W 2012-2013

I decided not to do a big fuss over fashion week. I just watched some shows, and didn't waist a lot of time watching all the shows and trying to find out what is going on in the fashion world of NYC. There's so many blogs doing it, posting things about fashion week so religiously. Fashion week is everywhere. So I decided that I really don't need to do that. Thankfully because reporting all the shows would have been exhausting. If you want to know more, just google it yourself. 

Back to the point: I have to put it out for the world, that I am obsessed with Gisele in that leather coat. Oh my god, doesn't she look amazing? And I'm not the biggest fan of Gisele, but girlfriend looks AH-MAY-ZING!

Marie Piovesan @ Marc Jacobs F/W 2012-2013

Alexander Wang show was really cool. I'm really feeling this leather vibe. There's leather everywhere in New York this fashion week. And I guess it will be all over the world. It is a big thing. Only few designers didn't use leather in their collections. I really liked the net turtle necks that Alexander Wang did, and all that white and black. There wasn't that much colour but it wasn't needed. Alexander Wang is such a inspiring designer, so young and so talented. But enough about him, just focus on Gisele and that leather coat. 

Other good surprise was the Marc Jacobs show. Mr. Jacobs brought it all to the runway. I was wondering when would he bring it, because this last seasons he's been so shy and boring whit the left overs of Louis Vuitton "whit a twist". 

This garden reminds me of that scene form Alice In Wonderland where Alice enters in garden of the singing flowers. Those hats and those coats were stunning, so creative, so new and fresh! Cousin Marc went all the way with this collection, didn't hold anything back and I'm really glad he didn't! Otherwise we wouldn't be able to see such a beautiful garden!

Vasilisa Pavlova @ Prabal Gurung F/W 2012-2013

Ymre Stiekema @ Rodarte F/W 2012-2013

Others good surprises were the Prabal Gurung and Rodarte show. The neon colour at Prabal remind me of that winter nights, when you go out after raining and you can see the reflections of all the lights on the water on the floor. Don't get it in the wrong way. That's a good thing. I really liked that blue pattern. The suit was to die for. And those final dresses? Damn it was hot.  Joan and Candice looked amazing in those dresses!

About Rodarte there is nothing much to say. Those sisters have turn this brand into something so wonderful and interesting. Season after season they make the most fascinating and lovely garments. It is really amazing being able to watch a brand evolve in such a good direction. There is nothing but love for Rodarte. 

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BLOOD IS THE NEW BLACK

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